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DIY 3D printer enclosure for Prusa Mini+ made easy*

*Easy so I thought. I figured, I have the box, this should be easy!! I have no idea why I thought this. It was not easy at all. However maybe my process or choice of parts may make your project easier. Enjoy

I’ll start with the final product. This is the end result and it works quite well and is very noise dampening. I do not know which IKEA thing this is, if it’s a mini bookcase or a stand. I got it a long time ago. The box came with a shelf, so I added rubber feet to the shelf and put the printer on top of it. I was trying to make it quiet and uncouple it from the box and table below. You can see the shelf and the gap below it. The knobs are from Home Depot and make of wood. In the back corner I drilled a hole and added an eyelet screw. I tied a rope from the eyelet around the hose to hold it up as strain relief for the fan connector.

Back side photo. I realized rather quickly that my IKEA box was not deep enough since the cable for the bed temperature sensor would hit the back of the box. I had to extend it a bit. The simplest thing was to cut up a 2×4 and glue it together and glue it in place. I was way too lazy to drill and screw all that together. The glue I used was Liquid nails Fuze*It. It’s super strong and worked well. It just so happened that the wood was the same thickness as the walls of the box.

I used a Noctua NF-A6x25 PWM, Premium Quiet Fan, 4-Pin with a Noctua NA-FC1, 4-Pin PWM Fan Controller (Black) speed controller, and Coolerguys 12V Fan Power Supply The black part is a 3D printed adapter I designed to fit onto the fan. The hose I used was 2-1/2 inch Diameter by 10 foot Long PVC Dust it came with the clamps. I used these rubber grommet things that came with a different Noctura fan to hold the fan and hose adapter to the back. Screws would have been better because the rubber grommets flexed a bit and could create an air gap.

Below is the fan speed controller. I used 4 pin parts for everything so it was an easy fit. I can just turn the dial and adjust the fan speed. You can see the rope tied to the eyelet that holds the hose.

This is the box with the 1/4″ plexiglass cut to size. I used a plexiglass scoring tool to cut it down to size. It was a bit of a pain. I wanted precise cuts so I used the factory cut side for where the doors meet since it was a better edge. The hinges are from Home Depot. They are inexpensive and they hold themselves closed with a built in spring mechanism . To prevent air gaps, I mounted the hinges in front of the doors so they would sit flush against the cabinet face. It’s not how they are designed to be used, so I had to add spaces to make thing work. I used a steel ruler and clamps to score the plex and clamped it to a work bench. I scored and snapped the plexiglass.

Here you can see looking from bottom the hinge sitting crooked. I used a paint stick cut down to size as a shim, but it was not enough. I had to add few screws as spacers.

Here you can see the hing with the wood paint stir stick and the washers I needed to add to get the door spacing correct. I only used 2 screws to hold the doors on because they didn’t need more and I’m lazy.

This is how the hose vents outdoors. I designed a bracket to take it from a round shape to an oval so the window would only have to open a small amount. I cut some wood and tapered it to fill the remainder of the gap using a bandsaw. The windowsill has an angle on the outside so I had to cut the wood and design the part to fit without gaps.

This is the part I originally made to adapt the hose to the window. It’s wide so that the volume is the same going from a circular opening to an oval. This part didn’t quite fit, so I designed the other one you see with the hose connected. I don’t need to move a lot of air. I just need less air pressure in the enclosure than in the room to vent. The hose is 2.5″ diameter more than enough to move air.

Here is what the front of the adapter looks like. It fits the bottom of the window and when the window closes it creates the tight seal.

I use an LED motion activated light since I already had one. Lucky when the printer moves up it does not trigger the light to turn off or on.

Here’s a quick video tour

Wrap up

Airflow

The box has a fairly tight seal, but there are some gaps in the front corners by the doors and a small one in the back. There is a hole drilled in the back plastic (center bottom) for the power cords. When I print I leave one door slightly ajar or sometimes just close the doors. The doors meet and sit so tight that I can just close one door and leave the other door resting on the edge of the other door. It leaves about a .25″ gap. Either way with the doors open or closed, it draws enough air that I never smell the melting plastic.

Plexiglass thickness and experience cutting and drilling

Drilling and cutting was a bit of a pain. Drilling the large hole for the fan was a bit scary because the holesaw bit would catch and yank the drill. Drilling the holes was also tedious because plexiglass can fracture. I started with small drill bits and worked progressively larger. Scoring and snapping the plexiglass was kinda fun. The thickness for the doors was 1/4″ thick and the back was thinner, but I don’t remember the thickness.

Cost

I also thought this would be cheaper since I had the box, and I was wrong. Here’s the price break down.

$33.78 plexiglass for front
$33.96 plexiglass for back
$15.00 fan
$24.00 fan speed controller
$ 8.00 power adapter
$24.00 hose
$2.20 door knobs
$1.34 washers
$1.98 wood for window
$7.78 acrylic cutting tool
$5.47 foam tape
$7.96 hinge
$49.97 hole saw cutting toolset

$215.44 Total

Ledlenser ML6 (warm) review

This is a good quality LED lantern. The first surprising thing is the weight. It’s got some heft, the weight is 10.5oz (300g). The top and bottom are metal and they are aluminum. The bottom has strong magnets. I believe the LED’s are in the top and aluminum is a good for dissipating heat. The flared black bottom piece is plastic friction fit and is removable. To remove the batteries the bottom unscrews. It takes (1) 18650 battery. The clear plastic is thick, the light has a quality feel. The lantern also is a USB power bank. The top switch glows and there is a ring around the base of the clear plastic that also glows. Nothing about this light feels cheap or flimsy. Brightness 5 – 550 lumens. 750 lumen boost. Low runtime is 200 hours, high is 3.5 hours. Boost runtime is not specified. The battery is included in the box and it’s a flattop. It was purchased for $79.95 USD.

Ports and charging

This lantern also functions as a USB power bank

The top of the light has two ports that are covered with a very well fit rubber cover that doubles as a loop holder for holding or hanging. One side has the IN port. Photo above.

If you remove the top loop you can see the IN port has a standard size USB port. You can charge anything that will connect. I tested charging my iPhone.

The other size has the IN port. It’s a micro USB

This is the IN port and it comes with a micro USB cable for charging.

Above is what it looks like without the removable plastic base

This is the bottom without the plastic base, it has two strong magnets, rubber feet and a threaded center for mounting on a tripod.

The removable plastic base has a folding hook. It can be rotated out and it can be hung upside down.

Interface

The interface is quite easy but the directions are not clear and it took me a very long time to understand all of the features.

On = long press
Off = long press
+ or – = cycle modes
The modes are:
-White light (brightness adjustable) [+ or – to adjust brightness] (double click for boost 750 lumens)
-Red light (brightness adjustable) [+ or – to adjust brightness]
-Breathe (light cycles from dimmest to brightest)
-Red secondary features (breathe red, SOS, blink, strobe) [cycle with + or -]

*Lockout mode by holding + and – from OFF. Hold + and – to turn off lockout.

I love the breath modes. The red is really nice. The white is also nice, however to prevent hurting night adjusted eyes, I wish there was a way to set the upper limit brightness in breath mode. Another change would be to prevent it from initially having the highest brightness on breath mode when cycling through modes. My night adjusted eyes have been blinded several times trying to find the mode I wanted.

Conclusion

I don’t typically write reviews on flashlights, this one was unique and I think it’s extremely well made, and thought out. This was purchased at REI.